Your Expert Guide to Exfoliating Acids

If you’ve ever stood in front of a skincare shelf wondering whether you should be reaching for glycolic acid, salicylic acid, lactic acid or something else entirely, then you’re not alone. Exfoliating acids can feel confusing at the best of times and, if you don’t already use them regularly, the idea of adding one into your skincare routine can be slightly intimidating. Let’s be honest—hearing the word acid in the context of your face can feel a bit scary. Add in the fact that there’s no one-size-fits-all approach to exfoliation and it all gets a whole lot more complicated.

The good news, however, is that you don’t need to get a degree in chemistry to work out which acid is right for your skin—we’ve created a comprehensive guide to do the hard work for you. You see, different acids work in different ways, with some being suited best for congestion and breakouts, others for dullness, and some for uneven texture and pigmentation. The key is finding one that works with your skin rather than simply opting for the most potent formula you can find. (Trust me, I’ve been there.)

Ahead, we spoke with Dr Ahmed El Muntasar, GP, aesthetics doctor and owner of The Aesthetics Doctor to get the lowdown on exactly how adding an exfoliating acid to your routine can benefit your skin. Plus, we’re breaking down the three main categories (that’s AHAs, BHAs and PHAs) and sharing the key acids within each, as well as product recommendations, so you can work out which ones will work for you.

If you’re a little hesitant to get started, then good news: Dr El Muntasar points out that exfoliating acids are actually one of the most well-researched and effective categories of skincare ingredients, as long as they’re used correctly. “The biggest mistake that people make with exfoliating acids is doing too much too quickly,” says Dr El Muntasar. “People often combine multiple exfoliating acids with retinoids, vitamin C and physical scrubs, thinking they’ll get faster results. In reality, that usually leads to irritation, dryness and a compromised skin barrier.” He also suggests starting out slowly—just once or twice a week and increasing if your skin is tolerating the ingredient well. Plus, SPF is key. “Freshly exfoliated skin is more vulnerable to UV damage, so sunscreen becomes non-negotiable and daily SPF even more important,” Dr El Muntasar explains.